BMW N54 E60 E61 x-Drive Oil Pan Leak Repair

If you have an X-Drive AWD BMW, the front differential is mounted to the side of the oil pan, and the right front drive axle runs through a sealed pipe through the oil pan. There are two aluminum covers which retain oil in the oil pan. I originally made a repair to one of these covers 2 years ago when I removed the engine to replace the turbos and do the oil pan and head gaskets. This repair failed almost immediately, and this post will explain why my original repair failed, and what I've done to make sure it doesn't happen again.

Right side of the N54 oil pan, with the right side drive axle and bearing support removed. 

Following my initial repair, the plate started leaking immediately. The engine had been reinstalled in the car, and the bearing support and drive axle already replaced, and the suspension bolted up and torqued. I didn't have the time or appetite to tackle the leak then, so I waited almost 2 years until I had a few other projects to work on to tackle this again. To start with, I removed the right side drive axle (half shaft) and the bearing support. Then, I removed the cover and discovered how little sealant remained between the sealing surfaces. The sealant remaining was brittle and was removed quite easily. I followed the sealant manufacturer's directions (wait 1 hour before applying full torque) but this delay is much too short to avoid squeezing out most of the sealant. This was my critical error.

Previous repair squeezed almost all sealant out of the gap between the sealing surfaces

 Clean up the mating surfaces. I use a plastic bristle brush, a plastic scraper, and scotchbrite pads soaked in brake cleaner to get the surfaces perfectly clean.

Plate cleaned up, old sealant removed, ready for re-sealing

I removed the bearing support and right drive axle without draining the differential fluid. I lost a very small amount of fluid through the axle tunnel, maybe 50ml or so (2 oz). I should top up the diff fluid when I complete the repair. Mating surfaces are clean.

Oil pan mating surface cleaned up, ready for resealing

 The last repair, I used a tube of sealant which I had on hand and was already opened. This time, I planned ahead, and made sure I had a fresh tube of new sealant for this repair.

Permatex Ultra Grey Gasket Maker

 Following manufacturers directions, I applied a 1/4" bead to one surface (the cover), and then assembled the cover with the fasteners, but not applying any torque. Just closing the gap to approximately 1mm, as evenly as possible on all sides.

Apply sealant to one sealing surface (not both)

1/4" 5mm bead of silicone, Circling the fastener holes (recommended in sealant instructions)

I waited 48 hours before applying torque to these cover fasteners - 2 N-m only. This seemed to compress the silicone nicely. I'll fill the oil pan with oil and check for leaks before replacing the drive shaft and bearing carrier - just in case I still have a problem.

Maintain a 1mm gap between sealing surfaces, wait 48 hours before torquing fasteners

The engine oil was refilled, and after another 48 hours, absolutely no sign of oil leaking from the plate. Looks like it will hold. 

Mate surfaces, but do not torque the fasteners. Tighten just until some sealant comes out of the gap

I've also found that I have a minor leak just above this repair - at the bed plate to block interface. A few drops of oil are seeping out around two of the bolt heads. To make this repair - the engine has to be removed from the car, and the bedplate removed (which provides access to the crank and crank bearings). This engine is at 205,000km now (approximately 130,000 miles) and this is a repair that I'd like to put off indefinitely. At least the oil pan to block gasket has held up nicely, no leaks so far. Same for the head gasket and valve cover gasket. 

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask in the comments below. 

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Shimming the Breville Smart Grinder BCG800XL for a finer Espresso Grind

I've been tuning up my coffee system for the past several months, coffee is a passion and daily espresso shots has been a routine of mine for many years. Check out my other posts on upgrades made to my Rancilio Silvia machine. Once I got my PID kit installed, I was able to manage temperature and shot time very easily. The next variable which I started working on was grind, and I found that I wasn't quite able to grind fine enough with my Breville BCG800XL grinder. Close, just not close enough.

Breville BCG800XL with Bean Hopper and Cone Removed

Off to the Internet! I found that Breville offered a free shim kit upgrade for this grinder. I called Breville customer service in North America, and found that my BCG800XL was discontinued. I owned this grinder for only five years. I initially thought about purchasing a replacement grinder, but I'm not keen about replacing things when they are still serviceable, and supporting the throw-away society. I decided to see what I could do to shim the grinder myself.

Use the handle of a wooden spoon to hold the burr from turning while removing and reinstalling the nut

Removing the burr is simple and takes approximately 10 minutes with one tool, a 10 mm wrench or socket. I removed the Burr and measured for washer shaped shims, and ordered some shims. 

Shims in place with Burr removed

When the shims arrived, I started by adding the 0.5mm shim. I could choke the machine a full 6 clicks from the finest setting, this shim was too thick. Then, with the 0.3mm shim, I found I could choke the machine at about 2 clicks from the finest setting. Perfect. My optimum grind is now 4 clicks from the finest setting, and I have several clicks finer to fine tune the grind if necessary.

Use the tip of a knife to ensure the shims are centered under the burr, before tightening the nut

Hint when removing and installing the burr - the nut holding the burr is REVERSE THREADED, turn right to loosen (not left). Also - I used the handle of a wooden spoon to jam the burr and keep it from turning while removing and reinstalling the nut.

0.3mm shim on left, 0.5mm shim on right

This fix will work for the following grinders (and possible others):

Breville Smart Grinder BCG800 

Breville Smart Grinder BCG800XL 

Breville The Smart Grinder Pro BCG820BSS 

The Breville kit part number used to be BCG800/116.1. 

I have spare shims available for sale on eBay at this link.

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Rebuilding BMW Transmission Oil Cooler Hose Quick Connect Fittings

I pulled the BMW E61 into the garage last week to sort out a few issues - rear axle CV boots leaking, oil leak, and low boost pressure. On inspection, I found a leaking transmission oil cooler quick connect fitting, which was spraying oil on the charge air duct from the intercooler to the intake manifold.

The upper (pressure side) tranmission oil cooler quick connect fitting is leaking

I did some research on the internet, could not find any articles about people rebuilding these fittings. This hose costs $170 - expensive to replace for a simple leak. I figured since it was leaking anyway, I would try to take it apart and see if there were replaceable seals. The part numbers of the hoses affected are: 17227570973, 17227571978 and 17227571985.

Once the connection is separated, I took a pick and very easily removed two regular o-rings from the female side of the fitting.

It was easy to remove two standard o-rings from the fitting using a pick. I was careful not to scratch the inside of the connector shell. Once I had the o-rings removed, I noted there were two spacers made from plastic - one green spacer deep in the fitting, and one gray spacer just above the green spacer.

O-rings removed from the fitting, see the green spacer and gray spacer just above. 

The old o-rings were squared off, and not very pliable. They held their out of round shape upon removal. I measured the old o-rings and then estimated what the original uncompressed size would be. They appeared to be standard metric o-rings, and a quick trip to the local o-ring supplier yielded some potential replacements. 

Old o-rings above, new o-rings below. Two per fitting. 

Next step was to stuff the new o-rings into the fitting.  To start with, I used a pick to push the green spacer to the bottom of the fitting, and lift the gray spacer to the top of the fitting. This leaves a groove the width of two o-rings to fit the first replacement o-ring. I stuffed the o-ring into the fitting using some needlenose pliers. 

Start by pushing the green spacer to the bottom of the fitting.

Then - insert the replacement o-ring using needlenose pliers. 

I used the needenose pliers to insert the o-ring into the fitting just above the green spacer, and then to hold one side of the o-ring in the correct position while I used a screwdriver to massage the o-ring into position. With the first o-ring in place between the green and gray spacers, use your pick to push down the gray spacer (and the first o-ring) against the green spacer. 

First o-ring inserted above the green spacer. 

Next step, insert the second o-ring just above the gray ring just as before. With both o-rings inserted, I closed the fittings, cleaned them carefully to remove all traces of oil, so that any new leaks would be apparent. Following a run-up - the two fittings I repaired were both well sealed. I created this simple schematic showing how the o-rings stack in the fitting. 

I've purchased spare O-Rings - if you would like to purchase O-Rings to repair your own fittings, click this link.

If you're careful with the plastic ring and don't break it when disassembling the connection, you may be able to repair it. One other tip - if possible, before disassembling, wash the hoses with soap and water, and get into the release clip side of the fitting with a toothbrush to get as much grit and sand out of the fitting. Blow water out of the release clips using compressed air, and this will make the disconnection a bit easier. Comment below if you have any questions. 

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Insteon On/Off Module Application - Preheating Rancilio Silvia Espresso Machine

The PID temperature controller operating instructions recommend a 45 minute warmup period prior to pulling the first coffee shot. This allows the temperature of the group head below the boiler to stabilize, which reduces water heating during the shot, and allows for quicker intervals between shots for the water temperature to restabalize.

I run an Insteon based home automation network, so I decided to install an Insteon plug in on/off module that I had available.

Insteon On/Off Module

The completed installation

These timer modules look quite contemporary

You could also install a mechanical or standalone digital timer. In my case, I wrote a very simple program in my Universal Devices ISY-994i home automation controller to switch on the pre-heat function at 5am, and shut it off at 9am. This will also help prevent the machine from being left on all day, and potentially triggering the 165C overheat trip sensor.

In use - works great - I make sure the machine is filled with water and the front panel power switch left in the on position at night, with a couple of coffee cups left on the warming tray. In the morning, I come downstairs, and the boiler temperature has stabalized and the group head is hot and ready for making coffee.

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Rancilio Silvia High Pressure Pump Hose Fitting Leak Repair

When I took my machine apart for the PID temperature controller installation, I noticed some calcified water drops underneath the high pressure hose of the pump, and some scale at the pump outlet where the connection had been leaking at the 90 degree elbow fitting.

Evidence of a slow leak at the high pressure outlet. Note the scale around the fitting. 

 I disassembled the pump and hoses, and cleaned the fitting and pump outlet with some scale removing C-L-R cleaner.

Pump and fitting disassembled nad cleaned. 

Scale removed using CLR cleaner

 With the parts cleaned, I decided to reassemble the parts using Pipe joint compound (Pipe dope). I like the pipe dope on high pressure applications because tape can tear and leave gaps in the threads. This compound is rated for 10,000 psi on liquids - more than enough for an espresso machine.

Pipe Joint Compound

Pipe Joint Compound applied to the threads of the stainless fitting.

Conclusion

Once reassembled, I performed a leak check, and there was no more leakage. All good. I'll need to pull the back cover off when I replace the rubber pump mounts - I'll report if there's any change.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions. If you're interested, you can help support this site by using the following links to Amazon.com in the United States. My go-to place for Rancilio Silvia parts in Canada is Espressotec.com.

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Rancilio Silvia Insteon Warmup Timer

I've been upgrading my Rancilio Silvia espresso machine. The PID temperature controller operating instructions recommend a 45 minute warmup period prior to pulling the first coffee shot. This allows the temperature of the group head below the boiler to stabilize, which reduces water heating during the shot, and allows for quicker intervals between shots for the water temperature to restabalize.

I run an Insteon based home automation network, so I decided to install an Insteon plug in on/off module that I had available.

Insteon On/Off Module

The completed installation

These timer modules look quite contemporary

You could also install a mechanical or standalone digital timer. In my case, I wrote a very simple program in my Universal Devices ISY-994i home automation controller to switch on the pre-heat function at 5am, and shut it off at 9am.

ISY 994i Program to shut the Rancilio Silvia Off at 9am Every Morning

If you look at the program folders - you'll note that I have a folder called "Home" - which only allows programs to run when the house is not in vacation mode. If we leave the house for an extended period, we'll set the house on vacation mode which runs automated lighting programs, and also prevents certain programs from running. In this case - the expresso machine will not pre-heat if we're not at home.

ISY 994i Program to shut the Rancilio Silvia On at 5:15am Every Morning

The automated shutoff program will also help prevent the machine from being left on all day, and potentially triggering the 165C overheat trip sensor when the boiler eventually runs out of water. This has happenned to me twice in about 10 years.

Conclusion

In use for two weeks now - it works great and I'm really happy with the upgrade. I make sure the machine is filled with water and the front panel power switch left in the on position at night, with a couple of coffee cups left on the warming tray. I also leave the portafilter in the group head to help keep the heat in the group head. In the morning, I come downstairs, and the boiler temperature has stabalized and the group head is hot and ready for making coffee.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions. If you're interested, you can help support this site by using the following links to Amazon.com in the United States. My go-to place in Canada for Insteon automation components is Aartech.ca.

 

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Rancilio V3 Steam Wand Upgrade

If you own the original or second generation Rancilio Silvia espresso machine, you can upgrade the steam wand to the third generation design with the swivel ball design - which gives you more flexibility for positioning the steam wand. The steam wand replacement is relatively simple, and can be done with basic tools and skill.

V3 wand on the left, V1 wand on the right. Note the additional length of the V3 Wand

 The installation steps are fairly simple.

• Remove water tank cover and water tank
• Unscrew 4 screws and remove top cover
• Remove the back cover (loosen 2 screws at top, and one screw at bottom through pump cover)
• Remove the 4 screws holding down the front cover - no need to remove the front cover completely - you can keep all the wiring to the front cover switches connected.
• Loosen the steam pipe locknut from the steam valve. 
• Remove the steam valve nut
• Replace the steam wand with the V3 version. In my installation, I had to move the serrated lock washer from the front side of the frame to the back side of the frame so that the steam wand sits as far back as possible to avoid interference with the front cover and the larger chrome nut under the valve. 
• LOOSELY install the locknut and steam pipe
• Replace and tighten the front cover - this will move the steam wand and center it in the opening in the front cover. 
• Then tighten the steam valve to the machine body. 
• Replace the back cover, tighten fasteners.
• Plug in the machine, heat it up and check for leaks. Do not shock yourself on any exposed wiring while inspecting the steam valve. Use gloves and remove rings. 
• No leaks? Replace the top cover, water reservoir, and water reservoir cover. 

V3 wand left, V1 wand right - note the larger nut on the V3 wand - Causes installation difficulty.

The larger V3 nut will fit the original enclosure, but very tight.

The biggest tip for installation of the V3 wand in earlier model machines is not to tighten the steam wand to the frame until you have replaced and tightened the front cover screws. This will guide the steam valve into exactly the right position in its hole for good alignment.

The installation of the valve to the Rancilio Silvia Frame.

Conclusion

So - I really like the new Rancilio Silvia V3 wand. When I'm steaming a half pitcher of milk - I can pivot the wand down to the bottom of the pitcher quite easily. When steaming a full pitcher - I can lift the wand up to be able to get the pitcher out from underneath the wand without spilling any milk. The functionality is remarkably improved - a nice upgrade. It also seems easier to clean. I like it.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions. If you're interested, you can help support this site by using the following links to Amazon.com in the United States. My go-to place for Rancilio Silvia parts in Canada is Espressotec.com.

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Rancilio Silvia Group Head Maintenance - Seal and Screen Replacement

My 12 year old Rancilio Silvia was in pretty desparate need of some group head love - the group head seal was leaking badly and the screen was in pretty bad shape. I had put this off for some time, and finally got around to making these repairs during my upgrade project which included boiler insulation, noise reduction, and PID temperature controller installation.

Group head in need of some TLC - Dirty screen, Bad seal

The group head seal had an obvious depression on the sealing surface, and the seal material was hard and brittle. I used dental picks to pull out to the old seal in one piece.

The group head seal had hardenend. I used a small hammer to drive the dental pick into the seal deep enough to be able to pry on it. 

The angle pliers underneath the pick give me a surface to pry against without marring the brass of the group head. 

Group head seals - old seal on the right, new seal on the left

 The group head cover also needed to be replaced, the chrome finish was peeling from the plastic. Since the machine was disassembled for PID temperature controller installation, and noise damping sheet installation, the group head cover was easily accessible for replacement.

The old group head cover had metal screw reinforcements for the plastic attachment columns - however, the plastic was extremely brittle when the reinforcements were removed. 

The old group head cover with peeling chrome film

Breaking the brittle plastic out of the metal reinforcements. 

Adding the metal reinforcements to the new group head cover. Tap gently with a hammer so that these are well installed. 

The new group head cover installed. 

A clean group head following scrubbing with a warm solution of water and espresso machine cleaner. 

Conclusion

What a difference the new group head cover makes for the appearance of the machine - looks almost new. The new seal is great - no more leaks. I've purchases two replacement group head seals and have added annual seal replacement to my calendar as a reminder to routinely replace these.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions. If you're interested, you can help support this site by using the following links to Amazon.com in the United States. My go-to place for Rancilio Silvia parts in Canada is Espressotec.com.

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Rancilio Silvia Boiler Insulation Upgrade

As part of my Rancilio Silvia mid-life overhaul (noise damping, group head maintenance, PID temperature controller installation, etc.) I decided to insulate the boiler. There's some debate about doing this on the internet, and there are insulation kits available from various sources, but these are the reasons I decided to do the boiler insulation:

• Faster group head warmup (head has to travel down from the boiler to the group head, and a warmer group head permits better and more consistent brew water temperature at the portafilter)
• Energy efficiency - particularly when considering the addition of a warmup timer which turns the machine on about 45 minutes to an hour before first use in the morning
• Protection of the PVC wiring and terminal insulators from excessive heat

I had some thin, fibreglass piping insulation available in my project bin, and this turned out to be perfect for doing the boiler insulation. 

The naked boiler prior to insulation installation. Note the group head below and forward of the boiler - heat has to move down and forward to pre-heat the group head. 

I used Climaloc Fibreglass Pipewrap Insulation for the Boiler

Wrapping the boiler with fibreglass pipe insulation

Boiler wrapped with fibreglass pipe insulation

Boiler wrapped with fibreglass pipe insulation

Insulating the wiring from the top of the boiler
simply cut out openings for the steam outlet,
boiler heater element and temperature sensors. 

You can see that I wasn't too fussy with the insulation installation - there are some small gaps around the top of the boiler and I wanted some heat loss to heat the top cover / cup warming tray.

Conclusion

In terms of performance, I've definitely noticed that the front and top covers of the machine do not get as hot as they used to - and I was careful when installing the noise damping mat not to cover any air vents or gaps around the top cover. This preserves the ability for air to move through the machine to manage the internal temperature. The group head warms up well, and a 45 minute pre-heat time seems to work very well for optimal brew water consistency in operation.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions. If you're interested, you can help support this site by using the following links to Amazon.com in the United States. My go-to place for Rancilio Silvia parts in Canada is Espressotec.com.

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