Installing a Bypass Humidifier - Honeywell TrueEase

This is a short post describing my installation of a bypass installation. There are a few basic types central forced air furnace humidifiers - one uses a fan to push air through a humid pad, and one uses differential air pressure between the return and distribution ductwork to push air through a humid pad. Since the electrical efficiency of very small electric motors is not very high, and the electrical efficiency of the furnace blower which creates that differential pressure used in a bypass humidifier is likely much higher - especially since in my case I upgraded to an electronically commutated blower motor - I decided to go with the bypass humidifier for greater system efficiency.
Honeywell TrueEase Bypass Humidifier
I've been engaged in an indoor air quality project - I have a number of issues that I've been tackling since renovating this house and I'll post about the various solutions as I work through them. In short - very dry air in the winter, very humid air in the summer, and optmizing the HVAC performance, especially since one of the household members has Asthma.

So - the whole house humidifier is obviously aimed at the very dry air in the winter. I've been tracking humidity levels for the past two heating seasons, and I've been getting down to 24 or 25% relative humidity, and all the problems that go with humidity this low. Cracks opening up in hardwood floor, nosebleeds and dry throats, dry coughs, and the like. It was finally time to sort this out.

I've posted about wall acne, and my aversion to having a wall full of different devices. I started this project with my thermostat and venmar ERV air exchanger controller - and I've traced my problem with high humidity levels in the summertime with the lack of integration between the furnace blower control / air conditioning compressor with respect to the air exchanger demanding (furnace interlock) with the blower. When the air conditioning compressor kicks off, the Venmar air exchanger forces the blower motor to keep running - which effectively re-evaporates all the condensation sitting on the evaporator coil in the fan coil unit. Result - the humidity removed from the air by the air conditioning system just gets put back into the airstream and redistributed by the furnace blower. So - I need to change my Venmar control scheme to force a shutdown of the blower immediately following air conditioning cycles with the heat pump - to allow condensed water on the evaporator to drain through the condensate drain.

I also require central control of the humidifier in the winter time. This lead me to look at the latest generation of smart thermostats - in an attempt to get better control over the HVAC in my home, and address my air quality issues. I found that the Nest thermostat doesn't have the capability to intelligently control ventilation, has a single output to control humidification, and has the ability to control the air conditioning to control de-humidification. Similar situation with the Ecobee 3 thermostat. Finally, I found the Honeywell Prestige 2.0 IAQ thermostat - with the equipment interface module, it has three user outputs that can control ventilation (ERV/HRV), humidificationa and dehumidification. So - part of this plan included upgrading my thermostat and ERV control to the Honeywell Prestige IAQ thermostat.

Why the discussion about the thermostat? Because the Prestige 2.0 has integrated humidity sensing, both indoors and outdoors with the wireless outdoor temperature module. So - it is equipped with the sensors and programability to control a whole house humidifier, without an additional humidistat or control system. The Prestige 2.0 equipment interface module can switch the control voltage with a single dry contact, and to keep the wiring simple, I decided to ensure the Bypass humidifier I selected worked with the same control voltage as the rest of my HVAC system - 24VAC.  The whole house humidifiers that are available at your big box hardware / home improvement stores are typically wired for 120VAC, and then wire to a humidistat for control. I wanted to avoid 120VAC altogether, and just use the Prestige 2.0 EIM dry contact to actuate the bypass humidifier.

I found that the basic Honeywell TrueEase Bypass Humidifier would be perfect for this application - requiring only 24VAC to actuate the solenoid to start water flow to the humidifier. I also added a 24VAC damper to open and close the bypass air duct to the humidifier, to increase system efficiency of the furnace blower when humidification is not required (shutting off the bypass airflow).

Honeywell TrueEase HE200 bypass humidifer
One thing I should mention is that this humidifier model is directed to HVAC contractors and not homeowners. It takes some control system knowledge to tackle this installation - it's not terribly complicated, but if you are not completely comfortable undertaking this kind of installation - call on a reputable HVAC contractor to do this work for you. Take the time to read the instructions - not only to get the installation done right, but to verify that the equipment you've selected is right for your application - online manuals are excellent to verify that the part you've selected will be adequate.
I added a branch off the closest cold water line, with a brass ball valve to shut off water to the humidifier. The TrueEase humidifier comes with a saddle valve that perforates a hole in your supply pipe - but I was afraid of that leaking so decided to cut my 3/4" supply line, and solder in a T and a branch for reliability. 

While there, I took my trusty P-Touch and labelled all the branches at this end of the cold water line - irrigation, outdoor tap, humidifier supply. These things tend to be obvious to certain people and a mystery to others - so I like to label things as I go to make things clear for potential future homeowners, and any tradespeople that need to work in the house. 

Installation of the humidifier itself is pretty straighforward, use the template to cut your access hole to the ductwork using the cutting template provided. A jigsaw made a nice clean cut fairly quickly.  

The humidifer hangs in the installation hole with two catches, then two screws keep it in place. The bypass duct inlet can be oriented left or right, and the humidifer pad can be independantly oriented left or right to customize the installation. These modifications can be made without tools. 
Bypass ductwork - air pressure from distribution duct forces air back through the humidifier pad into the return duct just ahead of the evaporator of the fan-coil unit. A spring closed damper only allows air to flow when the control voltage is present. 
Side takeoff to provide air to the Bypass Humidifier
To help save energy for when the humidifer isn't running, you can have the humidifer control clode a damper to close the bypass duct. This avoids short circuiting airflow between the supply and return ducts when not required for humidifying. You can purchase these dampers normally open, or normally closed. I purchased a normally closed damper, and wired it in parallel with the humidifer control, so that it only opens when there is a call for humidification from the thermostat.

24VAC normally closed 6" round damper


I decided to upgrade the nylon hose provided with the humidifier to copper tubing, just for a stonger, cleaning installation. I used a brake line tubing bender to get clean 90 degree bends in the line, then trimmed the final length at the unit once everything was lined up all the way from the supply tap.
Copper supply line connected to the plastic quick connect fitting on the humidifier
Supply and drain lines connected. For the drain, I used 3/4" CPVC pipe - same as my condensate drain line, and put in a P-Trap to avoid any odours coming up through the line. Consider installing a union fitting before the trap, to allow for easy removal and cleaning of the trap in case of blockages.
The control connections are the blue cables - 24VAC - 2 wires to control the solenoid controlling the water. 
Water supply and drain connections.

Conclusion

So - it took about a day to get this done - taking the time to upgrade the typical installation to soldered ball valve shutoff, copper tubing, 6" round ductwork with automated damper. The humidifier has been running frequently and quickly increased the 25% humidity level to over 30%. I'll talk about the control of the humidifier when I get into the operation of the Prestige 2.0 thermostat

5 Year Update

Still working flawlessly after 5 years, helps so much with managing household humidity in the winter, particularly important considering my son's asthma. 

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions.

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Replacing a Battery Terminal Clamp on a Subaru Outback 2006

It came time to replace the battery on my 2006 Subaru Outback wagon. 8 years, 150,000 km travelled, and still working with the stock battery. Not bad. A few incidents this winter - leaving an interior light on for a few hours, and having problems starting the car led me to Costco for a very reasonably priced replacement Kirkland battery (very highly rated by Consumer Reports).

Replacing the battery was fairly easy and straightforward, I won't go into that here. But when it was time to tighten up the original battery clamp - there was no way I could get it to bind tight to the new battery post.

8 years life on this battery clamp - finished. Time for a replacement.
So, of course when your doing something on the weekend, there isn't an option to run to the dealer to get a replacement OEM battery clamp, and I wanted to get everything sorted out properly without wasting any more time. There are two cables which attach to this clamp on the vertical post on the clamp - pretty well identical to a standard marine terminal. So, off to Canadian Tire for a marine terminal.
Catalog photo - Canadian Tire Marine Battery Terminal - $5.99 each
This ended up being about a 10 minute job once I had the part. The metal of this clamp is soft and malleable - allows you to get a perfect fit on the battery terminal, without any gaps. Will result in excellent conductivity and low resistance. 
 Use a set of pliers to shape the terminal to the battery post
Install the cables using the provided wing nut, make sure everything is snug. Take care tightening the clamp bolt - the metal is quite soft.

A good coating of vaseline to protect the terminal from corrosion. You can also use a spray on producet for this purpose. 

And replace the insulating cover - this helps prevent a short in case of the hood contacting the battery in a collision.
10 minute job, and perfect conductivity. No issues with charging or starting, all good.








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Installing a 12V Battery Trickle Charger in the BMW E60 / E61 5 Series - Trunk Mount at Battery

Last weekend I did a winter maintenance hat trick on my 2010 BMW 535xi Touring. I installed an oil pan heating pad, a battery warming blanket, and an 1.1 Amp trickle charger.

I made a quick trip to Canadian Tire and decided on the NOCO Genius G1100. Noco also makes another model with better environmental protection designed to be installed semi-permanently in the vehicle. However I decided I'd try this one - reasonably priced about $60.

Noco Genius G1100 1.1 Amp Trickle Charger

IP 65 rating should mean that this charger is splash proof and dust proof. 
Installation of the harness directly to the car was simple. There is a grounding post direcly on the rear fender, where I installed the negative (black) ring terminal under the OEM hold down bolt.

Black negative cable installs to ground lug on right rear fender - with other car electrical grounds. 
The positive connection was also simple, underneath a bolt in the rear fuse box where the positive battery cable connects to an aluminum bus plate. 

Positive connection on the bus plate in the rear fuse panel, where the batttery cable attaches. There is a black plastic cover for this bolt - which I reinstalled after testing the connection. 
The trickle charger will normally bring the battery back to 100% charger overnight. It's a nice charger - auto voltage sensing, senses the battery is an AGM glass mat battery, and switches off when it reaches full charge. 

I made all the electrical connections and installed the charger in the plastic tray above the battery - and grounded the 110V electrical extension cable ground wire to the body of the car (green wire). This way - if line or neutral ever shorts to sheet metal, it will trip the breaker in the house before presenting a shock hazard to someone touching the car. 

Note green ground wire - grounding the 110V extension cord to the car body ground for safety.

Noco Genius G1100 chager installed in the tray above the battery. The other connections are for the battery blanket warmer, and the oil pan heater. 

I ran the electrical feed through a small hole in the battery box, underneath the car out underneath the rear fairing. This way - it is quick and easy to connect power without having to open the hood or the trunk - quick and easy. When not in use, the cord tucks in above the fairing and is protected from road salt and splashing. 
Works great - quick starts in the morning on very cold days, and no battery issues.




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Installing a Temro Battery Warming Blanket in a 2010 E60 / E61 5 Series



In most BMWs, you'll find the battery in the trunk of the car. In the 2010 535xi Touring, it's on the right hand side of the trunk, just behind the right rear wheel well.

Installation of the Temro battery blanket is very simple, and takes about 10 or 15 minutes.

Temro Battery Warmer

There is a gap of approximately 1/2 to 2 inches all around the battery. Installation doesn't require removing any battery cables. I found that removing the upper tray support bar and the rear battery bracket simplified installation.

I used a 36 inch long, 80W model, and it fit about 90% of the circumference of the stock battery.

I oriented the AC power cable to come out between the positive and negative terminals, along the outside of the car. 

Blanket installs between the battery and the hold down bolt, which holds it perfectly in place. 
Check out this post to see how I powered the blanket in parallel with my engine oil pan heater, and trickle charger.
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Installing a Polar Pad Engine Oil Pan Heater on a 2010 E61 BMW 5 Series

I was pretty surprised when I learned there is no block heater option on the E60 / E61 BMW 5 Series - these engines use a wide temperature range synthetic oil to keep the viscosity of the motor oil low even in very low temperatures. Nonetheless, after a cold overnight soak at -20 C / -5 F means that the engine will crank for 3 or 4 seconds before the oil pressure builds and the engine fires.

Ultimately it was the known issue with these cars of difficulty producing heat in cold temperatures that pushed me to do something about engine block heating. When I leave the car outside overnight in very cold temperatures, I want it to fire quickly, use the least amount of energy possible from the battery to help prevent the electrical system from going into a preservation mode and shedding non-essential loads - in this case - the ventilation fan motor. See my other post here regarding the ventilation system not producing heat.

Canadian Tire sells an engine heater that sticks onto the oil pan and sends its heat directly into the motor oil, call the Polar Pad. I originally purchased the 250 Watt model, with approximate dimensions of 5.2 inches by 3.5 inches, shown below:

Polar Pad Model CP512 250W Engine Heater Kit - The self adhesive heat pad, sandpaper, silicone aluminum sealant, and a few zip ties.  
The next step in the process was to find a place to install the heating pad. The E60 / E61 5 Series BMW has underbody aerodynamic covers just about everywhere under the car, except in proximity of the exhaust, fuel tank and rear suspension. In order to get access to the oil pan, the car has to be jacked, placed on jack stands, and then the front and front center underbody pads removed. This isn't too difficult to do, but you do need to get the car in the air. Of course - if you attempt to put the car up on jack stands - make sure you know what your doing, and that you double check the stability of the car on the jack stands. Whenever I work under the car - I'll normally put a second pair of jack stands close to where I'm working for a bit of extra safety.

There is a jacking point directly underneath the engine on the main crossmember - which protrudes through a hole in the underbody cover - it's very easy to find, and solid enough for jacking. 

Jacking the E60 / E61 directly under the motor on the engine crossmember jacking point.

Once the car is in the air, on jack stands, this is the view of the underside of the engine from the front. Note there is an aluminum skidplate / stiffening plate underneath the engine oil pan behind the main crossmember / sway bar that will need to be removed in order to give good access to the oil pan. It is held on with 6 8mm bolts - an air impact makes this an easy removal. 

Underbody cover from directly underneath engine. Note oil crud and salt. This cleaned up fairly nicely with some comet and a floor broom. 

Aluminum skidplate / stiffener plate from underneath engine / oil pan. 

Selected mounting location for the polar pad engine heater. In the photo, just behind the sway bar is the steering mechanism. Just behind the steering mechanism is the oil pan - note the drain plug. The oil pan is pretty complicated with the front differential on the X drive model on the righ, and the driveshaft for the right front wheel runs through the oil pan. The only suitable flat surface is vertical between the steering rack and the oil drain plug. 

Comet and some water cleans up the skid plate / stiffening plate quite nicely. 

Setting out the underbody covers to drip dry following cleaning.

Underbody covers - cleaned.
When I went to fit the 250W polar pad, I found it was too large for the only available flat space. Back to the auto parts store for the 125W model, which is about half the size of the 250W model.


Packaging for the 125W and 250W models of the Polar Pad.

125W and 250W Polar Pad sizes compared. 
Now, with the correct size Polar Pad - installation is fairly straightforward. Sand down the mounting location to smooth metal, remove any paint or oxidation.

Mounting location sanded down, ready for application of the Polar Pad
With the mounting location ready, I used a heat gun to heat up the metal surface of the oil pan, and followed the instructions to heat the polar pad for 15 seconds by plugging it in, then removing the protective backing and applying it to the oil pan.


Polar Pad stuck into place with its adhesive backing.
 The next step is to seal around the edges of the polar pad with the supplied silicone aluminum high temperature sealant.

Edges sealed with high temperature sealant.
Polar Pad intstalled.
With the polar pad installed, the sealant is left to harden while the electrical cable is routed. I decided to run an extension cord to the back of the car, into the trunk next to the battery, so that my connections for my trickle charger, battery warming blanket and engine heater are all in one place.
Zip tying the electrical cables to the underframe. Careful not to route the cables where it will interfere with the skid plate once replaced. 

I ran the extension cord to the back of the car alongside the positive battery cable. This way I was sure that I was far enough away from the exhaust not to worry about melting the cable.  
The junction between the cord of the Polar Pad and the extension cord. I coated the connection in silicone electrical insulating compound before taping the connection with electrical tape, to ensure no water would be able to enter the plugged joint. 
Taping the extionsion cord connection between the extension cord and the Polar Pad.This connection is then zip tied to the bottom of the frame.
Once I got to the gas tank along the factory battery cable routing, the battery cable runs up underneath the gas tank, and then underneath the rear suspension. I found it impractical to try to run the extension between the gas tank and the body floor, so instead there was a good route along the top of the suspension brace that runs underneath the gas tank. From the rear side of the gas tank, there is a good route to meet up with the battery cable again and run between the rear suspension and the body. Before getting too close to the exhaust, I ran the extension back into the trunk where the battery cable runs. Note this a wagon, I can't tell you if the sedan is similar or not. 

Cable runs into the trunk, next to where the battery cable runs into the trunk. Cable runs through a grommet to protect the cable from vibration and wear. 
Note the extension cable in yellow, running into the trunk next to the battery cable. 
Once at the back of the car - the cable meets up above the battery for simple connection with the battery warming blanket and the trickle charger. 
Electrical cables in the storage compartment above the battery, ready for connection.

Conclusion

So - how does the Polar Pad engine heater work? In a word - brilliant. -20 C / -5 F starts are just like they are in normal warm weather, the engine cranks much quicker, and fires in a second or two. Much less work for the starter. The ventilation fan in Auto mode starts blowing air in about 2 or 3 minutes after pulling away - which seems to be a big improvement. This work took the better part of a Saturday, but now I'm happy it's done and hope this will pay off in reduced engine wear and longer life for the car. If you have any questions - just leave a comment below and I'll try to get back to you quickly.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions.
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Cold Weather Heat / Ventilation Problems in a 2010 BMW 5 Series - Battery Charging, Engine and Battery Heating

For the past two winters, on extremely cold days -20C / -5F or below, on my morning commute I'll have problems getting heat out of the ventilation system. In some cases, the ventilation fan will slow down to minimum speed, and for 20 minutes I'll freeze on the drive into work. Eventually the heat will start working in about 20 minutes, and by then my feet will have frozen to the pedals. Some research into the issue on the forums, and a few phone calls to my service adviser at the dealership, lead me to a possible cause for this issue. The BMW battery charging system has a load shedding function to help protect the battery charge level. So, after you've cranked your car after an overnight cold soak at -25C, with the depleted capacity of the battery at that temperature, and you're now driving the car with the heated seats, heated steering wheel, and the ventilation fan on high - the charging system may decide to protect itself by shedding (shutting off or slowing down) non-essential loads. One of these loads is the ventilation fan, when the ventilation system is not in the defrost mode. In defrost mode, the ventilation fan is considered an essential load and will be driven to high speed.

To make a long story somewhat shorter, I decided to take action and make a three pronged solution to this issue, to see if I could reduce the discomfort on cold days. Follow the links below to review the detailed posts on various installations. 

1. Install an oil pan engine pad heater (to shorten cranking times in cold weather, and help reduce engine wear on cold days - I plan to keep this car for a while - at least until BMW North America starts importing the 5 series wagon to Canada again;

2. Install a battery warming blanket to help keep the battery warm on cold nights, and to facilitate overnight trickle charging and short cranking times in the morning; and 

3. Install a trickle charger to bring the battery charge to 100% overnight. 

I also wanted to connect all three electrical loads on the car to a single extension cord plug, tucked up underneath one of the bottom fairings at the back corner of the car next to the trailer hitch, so I only have one plug to manage in the morning for connection / disconnection, and without having to open or close the hood or the trunk.


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Leak Sensor and Open / Close Sensor Heartbeat Monitoring, Low Battery Monitoring

In the last week I finally got the programming done for heartbeat monitoring and low battery monitoring. I based my programming on an excellent post on the Universal Devices forum by Belias here. I won't reproduce the programming here - it is very well discussed on the forum, but I will add some information about how I integrated it into my system.

Once I had the heartbeat programs operating, with the system variables programmed for each leak sensor and door sensor, I added a line to the notification program that notifies the user of a system fault or leak. This line controls an "Alert Notfication" keypad key scene, a "Water Leak" detected keypad key scene, or a "System Fault" keypad key scene, as appropriate.

For example, when a low battery status is received, or a missed heartbeat is received, an email notification is sent to my email address. In addition, I have an visual indication on my 8 button keypads at my entrance doors and bedroom keypad of the fault.

System Fault Indicator activated - Signals a Missed Heartbeat, Low Battery Indication on a Battery Powered Wireless Insteon Sensor. By pressing the system fault key, you can cancel the fault indication on all keypads where this signal is activated.
Check out my post on custom labelling Insteon Keypad buttons here.

I have set up these keys as controllers for the Alert scene - so that I can cancel the fault or alert on all keypads by toggling any keypad key. With the way the programs are written, they will update the notification every 12 hours - so you would have to cancel the fault indication on the keypad every 12 hours (or allow it to stay lit) until you correct the issue with the wireless device causing the fault.

Sources and Links

I hope you found this post useful. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section below. I answer all questions.. My go-to place in Canada for Insteon automation components is Aartech.ca.


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Insteon Powerline Modem (PLM) Issues - Appeal to Smarthome to Improve Upon the 2413S.

For about 2 months now I've been noticing some Insteon system / network issues - sometimes, the exterior lights won't come on in the evening. Sometimes, they won't go off. Sometimes, certain lighting scenes wouldn't function when commanded with a double tap (Fast On or Fast Off). I upgraded my EZIO6I to a pair of EZIO2x4 input output devices - but when I installed them, they wouldn't give real time status updates in my PLM. An hour with Smartenit tech support, two factory resets of the EZIO2x4 units - and then I had my real time updates in my PLM.

A few clear warning signals appeared at this time when I was trying to get the EZIO2x4 units linked up properly to my PLM. The first occurred about 3 weeks ago - when the PLM completely lost its link table. For Insteon novices - it's important to understand that most of your automation logic occurs directly device to device when using scenes - even when you set those scenes up using your ISY 994i. All the ISY does is set up the link tables in each device to communicate directly with eachother. E.g. - I have installed some Micro open/close modules in all my bifold closet doors to automatically turn on the closet lights. I've set up the controls using scenes - with the open / close modules as the controller. In this case - when the micro open / close module changes state - it communicates directly with the linked Insteon light switch - and doesn't rely on the PLM to do anything.

However, anytime you write a program in your ISY-994i to run what/if scenarios, or timers, the proper functioning and execution of the results of your program rely on your PLM to send those commands out to your Insteon network for the desired action to take place. This turns out to be a significant weak link. I installed an insteon controlled water shut off valve - whose off control is commanded by an ISY program based on the results of the inputs of eight Insteon wireless leak detectors. So - when my PLM lost its link table 3 weeks ago - it also lost it's capability to communicate with the IOLinc which controls the water shutoff valve. Needless to say - the protection of the system was defeated by a single point of failure in the system.

When my PLM lost its link table a second time - I knew that something was going wrong with it. It was a 6 year old Smartlabs 2412S manufactured in the 23rd week of 2008. I did a bunch of research on the Universal Devices ISY forums (an excellent source of information) and found that the current generation PLM - 2413S - had some known power supply issues - the power supply would fail fairly predictably after about 2 years of use. I was interested in upgrading to the 2413S - apparently it runs a bit faster than the 2412S. However, I did not want to purchase a PLM that would predictably fail in a short period of time. Replacing a PLM takes about one to two hours - you have to backup your ISY, install the new PLM and reboot, and then restore the new PLM. Depending on the extent of your system, this can take a significant amount of time. Then - one by one - you have to put all of your battery powered devices into linking mode manually - and write updates to them so that they have the new PLM network address. In my case - that means rounding up all my leak sensors - and going to the closets and doors one by one to put the open / close sensors into linking mode. 2 hours to reset a PLM - and I've done this three times in the past three weeks. I decided to look for an NOS (new old stock) 2412S on eBay, and found a vendor selling 10 of them for a reasonable price. It was at my house in three days, installed the next day - and all my Insteon network flakiness seems to have been fixed. No issues so far with scenes not completing themselves, or fast on  / fast off triggers not executing. My old 2412S lasted 6 years - if I can get 4 years out of this new one, I'll be happy.

So - some constructive criticism on the 2413S PLM. We're using this device and increasingly relying on it for home security, loss prevention, garage door operation, energy management in addition to straight convenience. The first criticism is that the gradual, progressive failure mode of the PLM associated with failing power supply components inside the PLM has no definitive failure warning. Your system simply starts losing reliability, until you eventually have a link table loss which then manifests itself by loss of functionality in your system. First, you have to notice something isn't working correctly. Then, you have to troubleshoot it, realize you MIGHT have a PLM issue, then troubleshoot some more until you decide to replace the PLM. Time lost in my case - maybe 10 hours. So - the PLM should have some form of self-diagnostic routine and be able to signal a performance problem - blinking red light, message to your ISY - when it detects that it is failing. Ideally, the PLM should have internal redundancy - so that if it detects that it's main circuit is failing, it fails over to a backup circuit that can continue running your network reliably.

I really appreciate my Insteon network - and the conveniences it brings with lighting control, security, and so on. However, I have absolutely lost my patience for the amount of time I lose trying to troubleshoot and keep the sytem working. I have two kids - I'd really rather be doing something else on a Saturday than troubleshooting sporadic communications issues that may be related to a failing PLM. So - consider this a call on Smarthome to do something about the single point of failure in all our home automation networks - the PLM.

The second conclusion to take from this? Be very aware of the limitation of the PLM with regards to any mission critical applications you have it controlling in your home. For example - shutting off the water supply in the event of a leak detection. Or - relying on it to relay smoke detector alarms to your alarm monitoring company. When you are adding a function to your Insteon network - take into consideration the reliability of your network and the possibility of a single point of failure event. There are some good program examples on the Universal Devices forums that monitor the heartbeats of your leak sensors in order to give you a warning of a missed heartbeat, a low battery, etc. Put these programs in place in your network. If your PLM link table goes down - such a program would then be inundated with missed heartbeats, and within 36 hours you would have indication of a widespread network problem, helping to link it to a PLM issue.

There's my Sunday morning essay, a month in the making with my trials figuring out some seemingly random communcations issues. I don't mind spending $80 to replace the PLM, however I very much do mind losing 10 hours researching and troubleshooting whether my existing PLM actually has gone bad. This is a perfect opportunity for Smarthome to improve their products, the reliability of their systems, the happiness and confidence of their customers. Let's hope they take the opportunity.

UPDATE - 6 MONTHS LATER - JUNE 2015

The 2412S that I was hoping to get a few years of life from, just failed after 6 months in service. Now that I know what to look for - it's easy to see the signs of a PLM that is failing. My double tap commands on my switches start becoming unreliable - sometime they work, sometimes they done. The automatic water shutoff valve stops working on a water leak detection command. The monitoring programs for the leak sensors and the closet door sensors start reporting missed heartbeat messages. As soon as everything starts operating "flaky" - there's a problem with the ISY PLM. I thought back to the amount of time I lost trying to reload the link table in the PLM, restore the PLM, try to eke a bit more time out of it - and I couldn't bring myself to try to reset it even once. Interweb order to Aartech.ca - new 2413S PLM with the request they confirm delivery of a hardware version 2.0 or greater. 2 days later - the 2413S arrives, hardware version 2.1. And a full evening of swapping the PLM, and getting all the battery powered devices to relink up.

People are reporting on the forums better reliability with the new 2413S, hardware version 2.0 - but it will really take 2 years before we really see if these are made more reliably. Cross your fingers.

On another note - in the course of reprogramming the PLM - I couldn't relink the IOLinc connected to my water shutoff valve. Factory reset 3 times - can't communicate with the IOLinc. I've had this unit for 320 days - RMA to Smarthome to replace the unit.

I'll say it again - I love the things my home automation system does for me - but I can't afford the waste of time troubleshooting and replacing a faulty PLM and relinking battery powered sensors one by one. Here's hoping that these devices start being made more reliably so we spend more time playing with our kids, and less time with our significant others laughing at our obsession.

UPDATE 2 - 6 MONTHS LATER - NOVEMBER 2015

I installed the new 2413S - and less than 6 months later it's lost its link table - and nothing is working in my network. So tonight - I'm off to lose an hour of my time resetting it, reloading the link table, and relinking all my battery powered insteon devices one by one. Seriously - how about a redundant link table and a device somewhat more suitable as the heart of a home automation system?


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House Freeze Alarm / Furnace Failure Alarm / Pipe Freeze Alert

This is another feature that can be added to an Insteon / Universal Devices ISY994i system - a freeze alert to warn of a furnace failure, to prevent pipes freezing or other damage in cold weather. I negotiated an insurance rebate with this capability added to my system, so it's worth considering and looking into.

I had some unused inputs on an EZIO2x4 Input Output module, and was looking for a simple way to add a freeze alarm. I also had an unused Honeywell CT3500 digital thermostat, with single stage heating and cooling functions. This was very quick and simple to set up, starting with the installation of the thermostat next to my automation panel in my mechanical room in the basement. The Honeywell CT3500 runs off battery power - and the internal relays are switched on battery power as well - so you don't need to provide the thermostat with 24VAC to provide the dry contact capability.

Install the digital thermostat at a convenient location. Note the wiring connections - R and W connections give you a dry contact output for the heating activation of the Thermostat.
With the thermostat installed, and a dry contact wire pair connected to the R and W (Heat) terminals - it was time to install the thermostat face, and program the thermostat. I programmed the thermostat so that it would always return to the programmed temperature setting if anyone (kids) play with the setpoint keys on the face of the thermostat. The CT3500 can be set as low as 4.5 degrees C - but in my case I decided to give myself a bit more warning and programmed the heat setting on the thermostat to 7 degrees C. 

CT3500 thermostat programmed to provide heat at 7 degreex C - Label added to face of thermostat indicating function of the thermostat and a reminder to replace the batteries once a year. 
On the automation side, you have to have an input contact interface to your Insteon network. You could use a Smarthome IOLink, an EZIO module from Smartenit with input capability - the EZIO2x4, the EZIO6I, or the EZIO8SA. In my case, I had free inputs on an EZIO2x4 2 Relay 4 Input Insteon module.

The EZIO2x4 has four inputs per device - 2 inputs are dry contacts, and 2 inputs are digital / analog inputs that need to be configured for your application. Since my dry contact inputs were already being used for smoke detector and alarm interfaces - I had to use one of the digital inputs for this function.

The instructions for the EZIO2x4 advise you to use a pull up resister in order to convert a digital input to a dry contact input. Some research on the Smartenit forums provided some additional detail - you should use a 6000 to 10000 ohm resistor - connected between the 5V and the I3 or I4 terminals - in order to avoid drawing too much current from the 5V terminal. Then - your dry contact connects between the common terminal and the I3 or I4 terminal. Here's what the connection looks like with the pull up resistor:

Using a pullup resistor to protect the 5V terminal on the EZIO2x4 from overcurrent, when using inputs 3 or 4 as dry contact inputs.
On other thing I learned on the forums - that if you are not using the digital inputs on these EZIO modules - you should ground the input to keep them from floating, and initiating unneeded Insteon traffic on your network. If you look at the photo above, that's what the green wire is used for - shorting the I4 input to the common terminal. 

Once the thermostat has been programmed, it's time to program your ISY-994i. I set up a new notification message - House Freeze Alert - and created a new program to check the status of the I3 input on this EZIO2x4. Whenever the input changes to "On" that indicates that the thermostat has called for heat - indicating a temperature inside the house of less than 7 degrees Celcius. In that case - I have the ISY-994i send me an email to my email address, and a text message to my phone with the Freeze alert message. 

You could also tie this functionality to a monitored home alarm system - simply by using one of the output contacts on the EZIO2x4 to trigger a zone on your home alarm. Your alarm company could configure this zone to warn of the house freezing - and initiate a call out.

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